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Station 16 - Kasajima Discussion
Abumizuri gets its name from the mountain pass separating the Kaegawa
and the Saigawa. The road through the pass is so narrow that when Yoshitsune
rode through here his stirrups scraped on either side of the pass. The word
"Abumi" means stirrups while the word "zuri" means to brush against.
Shiraishi was a castle town presided over by Katakura Kojuro, a retainer of
the Date family and Basho spent the night there on 5.3 (6.19).
Fujiwara Chujo Sanekata was a famous courtier and poet and is ranked as
one of the 36 poetic geniuses. He was at one time a lover of Sei Shonagon
and his name appears in her book, Makura Soshi. According to some
accounts, during the reign of the emperor Ichijo (r. 986-1011), Sanekata
quarrelled in the palace with Fujiwara no Yukinari and knocked his hat off
with a baton he was carrying. The emperor witnessed this incident and was
enraged at Sanekata's behavior. Sanekata was dismissed from the court and
sent to investigate utamakura in distant parts of the country. In
995 he was demoted and sent to Michinoku as governor. It was there that he
died in 998. According to Gempei Seisuiki when he rode past the Dosojin
Shrine at Kasajima he failed to dismount and worship. The gods were offended
and as punishment for this disrespect he was thrown from his horse and died.
In the reference to the deep grass, the passage actually says, "The
Dosojin Shrine, and off to the side the susuki grass, are still there." This
is a reference to a poem composed by the poet Saigyo when he visited this site.
Saigyo's poem, Shinkokinshu #793 goes: Kichimosenu/ sono na bakari
wo/ todomeokite/ kareno no ira/ katami ni zo miru. "When traveling in
Michinoku, he came across a large tomb. He wondered whose it was and
learned it was the grave of Fujiwara Sanekata. It was winter and frost-
bitten plume grass stood forlorn, and he wrote this, feeling sad: A name
unperishable/ he left behind/ but only plume grass/ stands by, all
withered." (H.H. Honda, p. 217).
Basho says they did not make the detour to actually visit the site of
Sanekata's grave and Sora confirms this. They just looked in that direction
as they passed by. Basho had already expressed his feelings about Sanekata
at Asaka and justifies not visiting the grave now in part by mentioning the
rain they had been experiencing with the phrase "kono goro no samidare." We
know from Sora's account that it rained hard on the night of 5.2 and all day
on 5.3. The rain let up on the fourth with occasional sunshine. Basho uses
the poetic word "Samidare" or rains of May here. In this word the "Sa" is
short for "Satsuki" (fifth month) and "midare" is an abbreviation for "mizu
tare" (water falls). By being lost and having to ask directions to Sanekata's
monument Basho depicts himself as the lost pilgrim on a journey far from
home and in this way links himself with both Sanekata and Saigyo who had
traveled here before him.
Basho's poem plays on the place names where the grave is located. The
kasa of Kasajima means "umbrella" and mino of Minowa means "raincoat". With
this inspiration he writes a poem asking where is this Kasajima and how to
find it with the roads all deep in mud. The word "nukari" suggests both "to
be muddy" and "to ignore" something. Thus, because the roads were muddy he
ignored the grave he might otherwise have visited. This poem appears in
slightly different versions in Sarumino and other collections.
Basho concludes by saying they spent the night at Iwanuma and it was
indeed an overnight stopping place along the highway. According to Sora's
diary they did not spend the night at Iwanuma, indeed they made a rather
curcuitous route and actually passed Iwanuma before they reached Kasajima.
Their actual itinerary: 5.3 they spent at Shiraishi leaving there on the
morning of 5.4. They passed Iwanuma that day and also Takekuma no matsu and
arrived at Sendai where they spent the night. Evidently Basho said they spent
the night at Iwanuma as a way of setting off or drawing attention to their
visit to Takekuma no matsu. Basho's purpose is to focus on those things that
moved him most.
This gives us some clue to the dynamics of the trip that Basho is
creating here. In this passage he creates the image of the pilgrim trudging
along muddy roads in a downpour of rain. In the previous passage he had
described spending the night at a dilapidated lodging at Iizuka where he
complained of the onslaught of vermin, filth, and illness. This passage
dealing with Kasajima marks the tail end of that mood and he is ready for a
fresh, new, more positive experience with Takekuma no matsu and Sendai.
In this passage we can clearly picture Basho slogging through the mud
and rain picturing in his mind a poetic vision of Sanekata's grave. While he
was exhausted in the present, his heart was inflamed by a vision from the past.
He was able to view his present suffering objectively, even humorously as
though he was standing outside himself. In the end, three moods are expressed
in this passage: 1) a feeling of nostalgia for the past as seen in his desire
to visit Sanekata's grave; a yearning for both Sanekata and Saigyo. 2)
There is a sense of reality found in his weariness as he trudges through the
endless mud and rain. 3) Both these feelings are mixed together in a way
that evokes some humor that overlays the entire passage. The poem he
presents here is technically well constructed in the way it links the names
of Kasajima and Minowa with the rainy season of May and the difficulties of
travel. What is not so readily evident is the wit in it; a sardonic wit that
arises in his response to this place and time. He makes a clever poem, but
he is still wet, tired, and miserable. On the one hand he expresses his
empathy with Sanekata and Saigyo who had experienced the same hardship
and lonliness he now experiences, but he contrasts this with a clever
wordplay on place names as if to show that he is not daunted by the rigors of
the trip or grief over the past.
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